Introduction
The easternmost part of Brunei is the Temburong District, which is separated from
the capital and the three other Bruneian provinces by the Malaysian state of Sarawak.
The Temburong District is rich in unspoiled natural heritage, including the Ulu
Temburong National Park (formerly the Batu Apoi Forest Reserve). Here the magnificence
of Borneo's lowland rainforests can be truly experienced. Botanically the area is
possessed of stounding diversity, however the casual visitor in search of birds
or mammals is likely to be disappointed by the apparent lack of fauna. In fact the
forests teem with wildlife, but these creatures are invariably shy and are quick
to avoid human contact.
Getting There
Ulu Temburong is only accessible by boat. From the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan
water taxis take about one hour to ply the route to the main town of Bangar in Temburong
District. This allows the visitor a glimpse of the mangrove forests which line the
muddy delta of the Limbang River flowing out of Sarawak into Brunei Bay. With luck,
Proboscis Monkeys may be sighted along this route, however these are more likely
to be seen in early morning or late afternoon.
Another butterfly species of note is the Tree Nymph Idea stolli. This white and
black spotted species glides on it's gossamer wings around sunlit areas, seeming
to float in the air with no effort at all. Other insects to look for include forest
centipedes, sometimes found guarding their eggs, the Giant Forest Ant Campanotus
gigas which, at one inch long, looks formidable but will not bite humans, and Lantern
Bugs with their bizarre elongated heads. Take some time to observe the activities
of termites; these social insects quickly break down dead plant or tree matter (or
wooden boardwalks !) and return the nutrients to the soil for absorption by the
next generation of plants and trees.
Fauna
Faunal species includes mammals, reptiles, butterflies and insects and birds.The
most popular, totally arboreal faunal species, is Müller's Bornean gibbon which
is grey-brown in colour and is without tail. Its habitat is mostly the forest canopy
and occasionally seen at mid-canopy level.[6] Squirrels, in particular the tiny
Plain Pygmy Squirrel near human habitations, and Black Spotted Rock Frog (Staurois
natator) are also reported from the park. Orchids and snakes, particularly the coloured
Wagler's Pit viper, reside on tree tops.Bushy-crested Hornbill (Anorrhinus), Rhinoceros
Hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros), Broadbills, Black-and-yellow Broadbill (Eurylaimus
ochromalus), and Swiftlets are notable birds in the park. Four hundred species of
butterfly and many species are rare species and the most famous is the Rajah Brooke's
Birdwing which is given the name "White Rajah" honouring James Brooke. The area
was under his private authority as part of Sarawak during the colonial era; the
male species have jet black wing colour and emerald green banding. Another variety
of butterfly is the Tree Nymph Idea stolli, which is a white and black spotted species.
Other species of insects found are centipedes, Giant Forest Ant Campanotus gigas,Lantern
Bugs and termites.
Birds and Mammals
Higher vertebrates are hard to spot in these forests. The Bushy Crested Hornbill
Anorrhinus galeritus may sometimes be seen near the accommodation but other dramatic
species, such as the Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros are more likely to be
heard flying overhead than actually be seen. Broadbills, such as the Black-and-yellow
Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus, may be found foraging for food, and along the rivers
fast-flying Swiftlets will be seen hunting for insects. The 'primate king' of Borneo,
the Bornean Orang Utan, is not found in Ulu Temburong. The king in Ulu Temburong
is the Bornean Gibbon Hylobates muelleriwhose loud call may be heard ringing from
the trees early each morning. This grey-brown, tail-less species is completely arboreal,
living in the forest canopy and only occasionally descending to mid-canopy. Squirrels,
however, will be seen at ground level, including the tiny Plain Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus
exilis which can be found near human habitation.
Botanical Treasure Trove
For the botanist, the Ulu Temburong National Park contains an abundance of species
for study. As is common in tropical lowland forests, the canopy is dominated by
giants of the Shorea,Dryobalanops and Dipterocarpus genera. At ground level the
forest floor is a wealth of gingers, begonias, gesneriads and aroids, and blooms
of the Ixora genus are easily found. Rattan species are numerous - these often take
advantage of the bright sunlight reaching the forest floor through breaks in the
canopy.
Palms, ferns, mosses and lichens are to be found along the river's edge and in the
quiet rocky gullies. Many of these species may be fully submerged when the rivers
are swollen by flash floods, but somehow they manage to cling to the rocky substrate
and survive.
Fruiting figs, an essential food source for many mammals and birds in the rainforest
ecosystem, are common, but keep an eye out for geocarpic figs, whose fruits grow
from ground shoots rather than from the trunks and branches.
One does not have to be a botanist to appreciate the diversity of Ulu Temburong's
flora - all that is needed is e keen eye, and an appreciation of the wonderful forms
and structures which have evolved over many millennia in these wonderful forests.
Accommodation is available at the Ulu Temburong National Park Headquarters. Booking
of accommodation is best made through travel agents in the capital, Bandar Seri
Begawan. Some of these agents can be found online. A package booking through an
agent should also cover boat and road transfers.
Scientific groups, natural history societies and school groups can stay at the Kuala
Belalong Field Studies Centre, just one kilometre upriver from the park headquarters.
Bookings should be made through : The Coordinator, Kuala Belalong Field Studies
Centre, Department of Biology, Universiti Brunei Darussalam, Gadong 3186, Negara
Brunei Darussalam.